Lucy Jackson's wine column | Exploring Italy

From left to right - Etna Bianco, Gavi and VermentinoFrom left to right - Etna Bianco, Gavi and Vermentino
From left to right - Etna Bianco, Gavi and Vermentino
This week I have been lucky enough to be involved in not one but two Italian wine-based events.

The first was in London at Merchant Taylors Hall, Bank to attend the Best UK Sommeliers Award. This is run by UK Sommelier Association who I obtained my qualification with back in 2021.

The final judging of the Best UK Sommeliers is live on stage and the event is supported with a walk-around tasting of mostly Italian wine producers and series of Masterclasses.

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I attended a masterclass based around Etna wines from the island on Sicily which produce a great deal of beautiful wines with minerality due to the volcanic soil. A particular favourite of mine from this region is Al-Cantàra, 'Occhi di Ciumi', Etna Bianco, Sicily 2021 (RRP £25.75) which is a fresh white wine with tropical notes and packed full of that wonderful minerality I mentioned. Any Etna Bianco wines should follow a similar taste profile and are predominately made up of the Carricante grape variety.

From left to right - Passo Antico and Primitivo di ManduriaFrom left to right - Passo Antico and Primitivo di Manduria
From left to right - Passo Antico and Primitivo di Manduria

The event was perfect to try different vintages of the same wines and explore some Italian grapes that aren’t as well-known which helped me decide on the wine choices for my second event of the week – hosting a private wine tasting for the Wine Appreciation Group which has been established since the mid 1970s. The event was held at Marmion House at the end of Marmion Road in Southsea and the theme was Italy: North vs South.

Some of the favourites of the evening were the Michele Chiarlo 'Rovereto', Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2021 (RRP 23.50) produced in the Piedmont region in the North of Italy which is known for the hints of white flowers, golden apples and well-integrated white pepper notes which makes for a standout white wine, perfect for summer drinking when paired with summer salads. San Marzano ‘Timo’ Vermentino, 2022 from Salento in the South Italy was also well received, distinctive for its herby scent which is complimented by the crisp citrus taste and delicate floral notes.

Out of the reds, the Passo Antico (RRP £10.95) grown in Sardinia and produced on the mainland near Lake Garda, offers a full-bodied red with balanced acidity and a long finish – a great wine to pair with tomato-based pasta or pizza. Finally, a firm favourite in the shop and at the tasting, the San Marzano ‘Anniversario 62’, Primitivo di Manduria Riserva 2018 at £30.75 RRP from Apulia in the heel of Italy. Bursting with flavours of black cherry jam, vanilla, and hints of coffee & cocoa, this full bodied and complex wine is a huge 14.5 per cent ABV but is a little too easy to drink.

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More suited to chillier weather with some hearty food but enjoyed all the same.

All wines mentioned are available from Wines by the Sea at 2c Albert Road, Southsea.

Lucy Jackson is Owner of Wines by the Sea. Call (023) 9229 3322 or email [email protected].

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